This subframe is intended for engine swappers--whether LS or otherwise--and stresses ease of initial installation, clean looks, excellent clearances for headers and exhaust, and ease of service-ability down the road. Note, we're launching the subframe with LS motors in mind, but we're working on variations for 20Bs and 2JZs. If you happen to be in SoCal and are interested in some co-development we'd love to talk to you. In the meantime, we're offering a version of this subrame without motor mounts welded so folks into other engines can DIY your own. See the options for more.
A little backstory first: for several years Ronin was adding parts and powdercoat to FD subframes made by Samberg Performance. When Samberg exited the marketplace we finally had a chance to start over, improve everything that was less ideal about that kit, and make a subframe of our own.
More than 2 times stiffer. The fore aft bars are trussed using taco gussets. This will make powder coating easier and it’s a heck of a lot stronger tie way to tie to the front control arm box. Torsionally, we’re packing a 2” cross bar.
We also paid a lot of attention to fixturing and tolerances. Multiple piece parts tab into slots. Both tubes and flat parts are being laser cut. We even designed in compensation for weld deformation (symmetry and sequence of welds, where you put fillets, and how it all fixtures). This means no more control arms that don’t line up.
The eccentric camber adjustment ovals will be both plug welded and stitched on the sides. It becomes 8 welds instead of 4 so there’s noway to tear the things off. By the way, we’re not monkeying around with weld on camber crescent moon extension BS. We don’t need the adjustment and most customers won’t need the welding. We believe the extensions were also a key factor in alignment slippage.
One that came as a surprise to us: We sourced an OEM subframe to verify our suspension, steering, and frame pickups. This was done via a combination of laser scanning and hard measurements. Did you guys know that Mazda’s control arm pivots aren’t parallel? There’s almost a 2” variation from front to rear. It looks like a combination of anti-dive under braking and packaging. Samberg never had this quite right. From our investigation of the suspension pickups it looks to us like the control arms on a Samberg kit will be forced to bind which probably also contributed to the systemic alignment slippage folks saw. Note: this subframe is designed to be backward compatible if folks decide they want to upgrade.
Finally, we spent a lot of effort making sure things just fit and land nicely. We gained somewhere between 3/8” and 1/2" of header clearance in the critical spot by the rear suspension pivots. That should make header install much easier. Some of our competitors don't even give you an option of fitting long tube headers which is total crap when paying that much for a swap kit.
This version is the Subrame Only Offering:
It's mostly intended for folks who want to upgrade. It should be direct replacement for Samberg subframes. If you you're upgrading from some other offering you might consider the builders subframe (see options) so that you can locate the motor mounts precisely as not redo your exhaust, driveshaft etc. If you're looking for a more complete offering with supporting pieces, we offer that here: http://www.roninspeedworks.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=111
If upgrading from a competitor's subframe, you might also consider our engine pedestals and engine isolators to match (available separately here: http://www.roninspeedworks.net/index.php?route=product/category&path=59 )
Builder's subframe: comes with engine mount section of the subframe loose and unwelded. The idea is that you locate them yourself for use with an non Samberg subframe replacement, you can also cut up the loose mounts and use them (or not) for a 2JZ or custom engine mounting.
Powder coat (not to be combined with the builder's subframe since you'll of course want that bare)
Some complemenatary pieces you may be interested in: